Harrison 
Charlene Prempeh’s book Now You See Me celebrates the work of Black designers over the past 100 years, from the lauded to the chronically ignored. Here, we select nine of her most influential.
Entitled Now You See Me: An Introduction to 100 Years of Black Design, the book features architects, fashion designers and graphic artists and was launched to coincide with Black History Month in the UK.
British author Prempeh, founder of creative agency A Vibe Called Tech and 2022 Dezeen Prize judge, hoped the book would correct the historical marginalization of black creatives.
“I’ve always wondered why there were no records of black life,” Prempeh told Dezeen. “I wanted to add to the growing body of efforts aimed at addressing and redressing that imbalance.”
“I hope this book is broad enough so that people understand that this problem was not just related to one discipline or one creative, but was actually systemic. I hope so,” she added.
This book focuses specifically on pioneering Black designers who have helped define cultural movements, and deeply explores their careers and significance.
Here, Prempeh picks nine people you should know.
emory douglas
“It’s almost impossible to look at the work of graphic artist Emory Douglas without thinking about what constitutes, what constitutes, and what should constitute a black aesthetic.
“He has the unusual distinction of straddling the Black Arts Movement, a political collective of black creators who embraced the Black Power movement as cultural nationalists in the 1960s and 1970s and called for the creation of poetry, novels, visual arts, and theater. We sit in a space to reflect our pride in Black history and culture and the revolutionary nationalists represented by the Black Panther Party.”
“The party in which Mr. Douglas was a central figure used his frank, provocative, and sometimes violent graphic images to breathe life into the rhetoric.”
Kenneth Eyes
“Kenneth Eyes, a 2019 finalist in the LVMH Prize for Young Fashion designers, creates hand-woven textiles for his brand in a small factory he owns and operates in Nigeria.”
“While many designers would have seen being shortlisted for this award as a sign of moving to the commercial fashion capitals of London, Paris and Milan, Eyes has taken the accolade and given it his all. in Lagos and continues to create brands and collections there, like Karl Lagerfeld and SAGAN (pictured). ”
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Dievede Francis Kelle
“Diebed Francis Kéré recently won the coveted Pritzker Architecture Prize. The first African and first black person to win the award, Kéré founded the company in 1998 to advocate for the rebuilding of Africa. Since launching the Kele Foundation in 2007, we have continued to answer the call to rebuild Africa, and for the right of children to attend comfortable classrooms.”
“Born in the village of Gand in Burkina Faso, Kéré openly points to Afrofuturism as the organizing principle of his work.
“While attending school, he began construction of Gando Elementary School (pictured), which was completed in 2001, drawing his own plan in the sand and actively listening to and incorporating villagers’ suggestions and improvements. Dano Junior High School followed suit, and Mr. Kele again responded.”Using local technology to address local climate issues. ”
designers-book-charlene-pempeh_dezeen_2364_col_0-852×1178.jpg 1x, https://static.dezeen.com/uploads/2023/10/now-you-see-me-black-designers-book-charlene-pempeh_dezeen_2364_col_0-1704×2356.jpg 2x” src=”https://static.dezeen.com/uploads/2023/10/now-you-see-me-black-designers-book-charlene-pempeh_dezeen_2364_col_0-852×1178.jpg” data-sizes=”(max-width: 1710px) 100vw, 1710px” class=”wp-image-1991003 size-full lazyload” bad-src=”data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAAAAACH5BAEKAAEALAAAAAABAAEAAAICTAEAOw==”/>Ann Lowe
“Black fashion designer Ann Lowe was given the opportunity to design Jackie Kennedy’s wedding dress in 1953, but Kennedy referred to Lowe only as a ‘colored woman dressmaker’ in an interview. Therefore, it was not recognized.”
“Low’s life story now stands as a great designer discovery. And she was great. Whether Jackie liked it or not, her wedding dress influenced millions of dresses around the world.” But Rowe’s experience also shows that at the time, black designers were largely kept in the dark.”
designers-book-charlene-pempeh_dezeen_2364_col_1-852×1208.jpg 1x, https://static.dezeen.com/uploads/2023/10/now-you-see-me-black-designers-book-charlene-pempeh_dezeen_2364_col_1-1704×2415.jpg 2x” src=”https://static.dezeen.com/uploads/2023/10/now-you-see-me-black-designers-book-charlene-pempeh_dezeen_2364_col_1-852×1208.jpg” data-sizes=”(max-width: 1668px) 100vw, 1668px” class=”wp-image-1991004 size-full lazyload” bad-src=”data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAAAAACH5BAEKAAEALAAAAAABAAEAAAICTAEAOw==”/>Emmett McBain
“Graphic designer Emmett McBain decided to focus on black design for a black audience and create a brief where black people were the stars of their own show.
“McBain’s portfolio includes iconic album covers, advertisements, and the seminal 1968 black-and-white masterclass on insidious racism he created in his capacity as creative director of Vince Colors Group. Contains the “Black is Beautiful” advertisement (pictured).”
“Founded in 1956, the agency was the first African-American full-service advertising agency. Its dependence on black support meant that McBain did not study the reactions of white audiences. “It means he can design. His work creates intimacy with black audiences and is a model of design rooted in freedom.”
Liz Montagu
“Liz Montague credits the New Yorker with becoming the first black female cartoonist to be published in the paper after she wrote a letter to the editor complaining about the lack of representation. Her work is centered around layers of humor that nod to the dual frustrations of black women in a society that is alternately sexist and racist.”
“Other high-profile work includes an illustrated video for Joe Biden’s 2020 presidential campaign, narrated by Stacey Abrams, and an illustration of a Google Doodle celebrating Jackie Ormes, a Black icon in graphic arts. There are requests to draw etc.
Norma Sklarek
“In 1959, Norma Sklarek became the first African American woman to become a member of the American Institute of Architects. Three years later, she became the first black female chartered architect in California. By 1985, Sklarek became the first African American woman to become a member of the Institute of Architects – Practicing Architecture.
“These three firsts have led some to nickname Sklarek the ‘Rosa Parks of architecture,’ drawing parallels between Parks’ approach to protests and Sklarek’s professional resilience.” It pointed out.
“Her architectural successes include the modernist design for the U.S. Embassy in Tokyo in 1976 (pictured) and the Terminal 1 station at Los Angeles International Airport in 1984.”
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“American fashion and costume designer Zelda Wynn Valdez is often incorrectly cited for designing costumes for the Playboy Bunnies. Her more interesting (and factually correct) claim to fame is that she was the singer He has a designer-muse relationship with actress Joyce Bryant (pictured).
“Valdez also played an important role in artistic resistance during the civil rights movement as costume designer for the famous all-black ballet company Dance Theater of Harlem.”
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“Paul Revere Williams was an architectural giant who began his career in 1921, building luxurious homes for Hollywood icons such as Frank Sinatra, Cary Grant, and Lucille Ball.
“In addition to his work in residential areas, he designed such glamorous commercial projects as the MCA headquarters, the Saks Fifth Avenue department store on Wilshire Boulevard in Beverly Hills, and the luxurious Sunset Plaza Apartments. .”
“Despite an impressive client list, Williams had to develop an elaborate strategy to avoid uncomfortable situations with white patrons. He never felt offended even sitting next to them. “I learned to stand back and walk around the job site with my hands behind my back.” That way, there would be no awkward moments when customers had to shake hands. ”
